As we entered Montagu Kitchen London at the Five-Star Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill in Portman Square of Marylebone, we were welcomed with warmth and an abundance of charm from every member of staff we encountered from the door to the waiting staff, to the head chef.
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Hyatt Regency London Hotel
This hotel has magnificent rooms, large interiors with stunning marble floors and chandeliers good enough to accommodate the likes of Barack Obama in the past.
The hotel is called Elizabeth Montagu in memory of Sir Winston Churchill’s bust and artwork.
A la Carte Dining
Head Chef Roger Olsson has created a gourmet journey from “prologue” to “epilogue” for Montagu Kitchen London. The innovative and fresh British cuisine reinvents traditional classics. In the restaurant, you can see a bustling open kitchen with frequent “Yes Chef” choruses. Olsson, a Swedish native, has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants and famous hotels like The Ritz and Dorchester.
From the ‘Prologue’ area of the menu, order 3 small meals to graze and share. The chef was particularly attentive to our dietary needs, checking them before we placed our meals. Although it was difficult to cut into, this sourdough bread was worth the effort since it was so tasty. Warm sourdough bread was served with whipped butter and seeds. To save room for the remainder of our supper, my companion and I decided to stop at two slices apiece.
The Bubble & Squeak Bites are presented in a little cube with English mustard mayo and garnish. Originally served as a morning meal prepared from leftovers, this felt light and fresh, with no leftovers in sight.
Oysters from the Colchester region were served on ice and garnished with chopped leeks. I helped them out of the shell and they tasted fantastic with the Kentish Tobasco.
The Menu at Montagu Kitchen
One of the most surprising plates of the evening was the Churchill cucumber with sour cream. With a hint of spice and a hint of pickle, the cucumber was delicious. The waiter recommended this and I’m grateful as it didn’t jump out at me from the menu. The best part was the almost dessert-like presentation.
The vibrant rosette fish & chips batter is enclosed in a flower form, jewelled with brilliant orange trout roe, strings of cream, topped with chopped chives and centred with a tiny radish slice. Furthermore, the fish roe was fresh and excellent, and the flavours blended well.
From the ‘Harvested’ section, we ordered the globe artichoke with red endive. The artichoke flavour was a little overshadowed by the sweet apple and caramel. From the ‘Hooked’ section, we ordered the Orkney scallops served with Jerusalem artichoke and hazelnuts.
Sea purslane leaves were used to decorate the sauce, which was served in a large shell.
A pescatarian like me may order Fallow Venison Loin, Corn Fed Baby Chicken, or the Quail Wellington (serves 2).
Dessert at Montagu Kitchen
Lastly, we’ve reached the ‘Prologue’. I opted for one of my favourite desserts, sticky toffee pudding presented in a ring-like a swirl bundt cake. The Kitchen has you covered with a sauce pourer to top off your own serving of pudding. Served separately, the yoghurt sorbet is fresh, sweet not at all overbearing. My guest also ordered a ‘Chaucer’s Cheese’ cheeseboard which came with Camembert, pear chutney and green and red grapes.
Certainly, this menu clearly reflects excellent care and attention, and I always appreciate good service. In addition, I appreciated the beautiful creative plating and the immersive elements of sauce pouring and vinegar spraying.
I wouldn’t normally eat in a hotel restaurant unless I was staying there. Located near London’s iconic Oxford Street and Bond Street, Montagu Kitchen London is a perfect alternative to dine in an ambient refuge away from the rush and bustle.
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✔️ Overall Rating – 8/10
👨🍳 Our Expert: Syeshia Sweeney